There are exciting developments in Izmir, where a conservation plan has the interest of architect Daniel Libeskind

“It is the biggest heritage project in the world today,” says Uri Bar-Ner from the Kiriaty Foundation, referring to the plan to restore Jewish heritage in Turkey’s coastal city of Izmir. The initiative, led by the Foundation, aims to restore a cluster of synagogues in the city and has attracted interest from leading architect Daniel Libeskind.

Izmir boasts a unique complex of synagogues dating from the 17th century. Of an original 34 buildings, eight remain today, located around the city’s market area.

This once-magnificent site can be traced back to the Sephardi Jews who arrived fleeing the Inquisitions in Spain and Portugal from 1492. The synagogues are characterised by a central platform (tevah) surrounded by four pillars forming a canopy effect.

Over the years, many have fallen into ruin. The Izmir Project was set up by the Kiriaty family, who live in Israel. “They visited Izmir about 10 years ago and were amazed by the ancient remains,” says Bar-Ner. “They decided to start a campaign to rebuild the synagogues and create a museum of Jewish life. We hope the site will become a place to tell the story of the Jewish presence in a Muslim society.”

The project is supported by the London-based Foundation for Jewish Heritage. In November 2018, the FJH arranged for Libeskind to visit the complex. There are hopes that he will be involved in creating a museum of Jewish heritage at the site.

So far restoration has rescued the Etz Ha-Hayim (which is thought to date to the Romaniote communities of the 14th and 15th centuries), the Portuguese and the 19th-century Beit Hillel synagogues. The Foundation is also preserving 325 ‘parokhot’ (wraps that cover the Torah scrolls) dating back hundreds of years. It has also restored the Gurgeshme Cemetery, whose tombstones feature inscriptions in Hebrew, Ladino, French, German and Turkish.

This winter there will be a second Sephardic Culture Festival in Izmir, following the success of the one in 2018, which featured musicians and singers performing in the restored synagogues, talks, tours and food stalls.

“This year we are planning more activities,” says Nesim Bencoya, the founder of the festival and coordinator of the Izmir Project, “such as a dramatisation of a traditional Sephardi wedding and a musical tribute to the Ladino singer Itzak Algazi.”

By Rebecca Taylor

Sephardic Culture Festival runs Thursday 26 – Monday 30 December. Izmir, Turkey. Visit the SCF Facebook page for further details.

This article also appears in the Jul 2019 issue of JR.